This door handles buying guide helps you match the right handle and lock to each door in your home. Start by deciding the function (entry, privacy or passage), then pick a handle style, a backset that fits your door, and a finish that suits your décor. Get those four things right and installation is straightforward.
What does a door handle actually need to do?
Every handle set is built around a job, so name the job first. An entry door needs a keyed lock, a bathroom or bedroom needs a privacy latch you can lock from inside, and a hallway or wardrobe door usually just needs a passage latch with no lock at all.
Buying by function saves money and frustration. There is no point paying for a keyed deadbolt on a linen cupboard, and a plain passage set on your front door leaves you unsecured. Walk the house, list each door, and label it entry, privacy or passage before you shop.
Lever handles vs door knobs: which is better?
Levers are the easy default for most Australian homes. You press down with a hand, elbow or even a hip when your arms are full, which makes them ideal for kitchens, laundries and busy hallways. They also suit kids, older residents and anyone with limited grip.
Knobs have a neater, more traditional look and can feel right on period homes or feature doors. The trade-off is that a round knob needs a firm twisting grip, so it is less friendly for wet hands or heavy loads. Mix and match if you like, keeping levers on high-traffic doors and knobs where looks matter most.
What about the finish?
Finish is where a handle set earns its keep visually. Matt black and brushed nickel are the current favourites, while polished chrome and satin stainless stay timeless and hide fingerprints well. Brass and bronze tones warm up a room and pair nicely with timber doors.
Try to keep finishes consistent within a single space so hinges, handles and adjacent fittings read as one set. You will find matching handles, latches and door fittings across our hardware accessories range, which makes it easier to keep a whole hallway looking tidy.
Understanding backset, doors and lock types
The backset is the distance from the door edge to the centre of the handle hole, and it must match your door for the latch to reach. Most residential doors use a 60 mm backset, with some at 70 mm, so measure before you buy or choose an adjustable latch that covers both.
Lock type is the other big decision. A privacy set locks with a snib or turn-button and unlocks in an emergency with a coin or small tool from the outside. An entry set adds a key, and a separate deadbolt above the handle gives your external doors real holding power against forced entry.
Solid vs hollow doors
Check whether your door is solid or hollow-core before fitting anything heavy. Hollow internal doors have a timber block near the handle position for fixings, so keep hardware within that zone. Solid timber and external doors happily take heavier deadbolts and full entry sets.
Which handle suits which door?
Use this quick guide to match hardware to the room, then confirm the backset and finish before ordering.
| Door / room | Recommended type | Lock needed? |
|---|---|---|
| Front / back entry | Entry lever set + deadbolt | Keyed both |
| Bathroom / ensuite | Privacy lever | Snib, emergency release |
| Bedroom | Privacy lever or knob | Snib |
| Hallway / living | Passage lever | None |
| Wardrobe / linen | Passage knob or latch | None |
| Sliding / wardrobe rail | Flush pull or rail fitting | Optional |
Sliding wardrobe and cavity doors are the exception, since they use flush pulls and rail fittings rather than a turning handle. A neat option here is the Sandleford 15mm chrome oval centre pillar, a zinc-alloy, chrome-plated rail fitting that keeps that hardware looking crisp and coordinated.
Common mistakes to avoid when buying door hardware
Even a well-planned door handles buying guide can be undone by a few classic slip-ups at the checkout or on the doorstep. Knowing them in advance saves a frustrating return trip and a half-fitted door.
The most frequent error is not measuring the backset and assuming every handle fits every door. A 70 mm door drilled for a 60 mm latch leaves the handle sitting awkwardly close to the frame, or the latch simply will not reach the strike plate. Just as common is buying a passage set for a bathroom, then discovering there is no way to lock the door from inside. People also overlook door handing, ordering a keyed entry set that is built for a left-hand swing when their door opens to the right, which matters on some lever and mortice designs.
Two more traps catch people out. The first is ignoring door thickness: most residential doors are 35 to 45 mm, and hardware sized outside that range either will not clamp up or leaves the spindle poking through. The second is mixing finishes across one space, so a matt black lever ends up beside a chrome hinge and a brushed strike plate. Buy hinges, handles and visible fixings in the same finish, and the whole door reads as one considered piece rather than a parts-bin assembly.
A rough cost guide for outfitting your doors
Budgeting the hardware for a whole house is easier when you group doors by the job they do, since function drives most of the price. Treat the following as relative tiers rather than fixed dollar figures, because finish and brand shift the total.
- Passage sets for hallways, living areas and wardrobes are the most affordable, as they carry no lock mechanism at all.
- Privacy sets for bedrooms and bathrooms sit a step up, adding the snib and emergency-release mechanism.
- Entry sets with a deadbolt for front and back doors are the priciest per opening, because you are paying for the keyed cylinder and the extra security.
- Finish premiums apply across the board, with matt black and brushed brass generally costing more than standard satin chrome.
A sensible approach is to spend the most on the two or three external doors that carry your security and kerb appeal, then economise with tidy passage and privacy sets on the internal doors nobody sees from the street.
Care and installation tips
Good hardware lasts for years with almost no effort. Wipe handles with a soft, damp cloth and avoid abrasive cleaners or scourers that can scratch a brushed or plated finish. A tiny amount of dry graphite or a purpose-made lock lubricant keeps keyways and latches moving smoothly.
During installation, protect timber floors and skirtings from dropped tools and screws. A cheap set of felt pads or the Surface Gard 60mm non-slip castor cups under a workbench or stepladder stops scuffs while you work at the door.
Keep your screwdrivers matched to the screw heads so you do not chew out the fixings, and hand-tighten the final turns to avoid stripping the latch plate. For a coordinated hallway, browse matching accents and finishing touches across our wider home range once the handles are in.
Common questions before you buy
A few final checks save a return trip. Confirm your door thickness (most are 35–45 mm), your backset, and whether the door swings left or right, since some entry sets are handed. Buy a spare privacy set too, because bathrooms and bedrooms tend to wear out first and matching later can be tricky.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a passage, privacy and entry handle set?
A passage set has no lock and simply latches the door, ideal for hallways and living areas. A privacy set locks from inside with a snib and has an emergency release, suited to bathrooms and bedrooms. An entry set is keyed for external doors and is often paired with a deadbolt for extra security.
How do I measure the backset for a new door handle?
Measure from the edge of the door to the centre of the drilled handle hole. In Australian homes this is usually 60 mm, with some doors at 70 mm. If you are unsure, choose an adjustable latch that covers both distances, so the bolt always reaches the strike plate correctly.
Are lever handles better than door knobs?
For everyday use, levers are easier because you can open them with a hand, elbow or hip when your arms are full, which helps kids and older residents. Knobs suit period homes and feature doors but need a firm twisting grip. Many homes use levers on busy doors and knobs where looks matter most.
Do I need a deadbolt as well as an entry handle?
For external doors, a deadbolt is strongly recommended. An entry handle latches and locks with a key, but a separate deadbolt above it adds solid holding power against forced entry. Together they give a front or back door far better security than a handle set on its own.
