How to Sharpen Knives and Chisels With a Sharpening Stone

To sharpen chisels and knives with a sharpening stone, soak or wet the stone, then hold the blade at a steady angle (about 25 to 30 degrees for chisels, 15 to 20 for kitchen knives) and draw it across the grit in smooth, even strokes. Work from a coarse grit to a fine grit, keep the bevel flat, then hone off the burr. Knowing how to sharpen chisels properly means less force, cleaner cuts and safer work.

Why a sharp edge matters

A blunt blade is a dangerous blade. It slips, skates and needs more pressure, which is exactly when accidents happen. A keen edge bites where you place it and does the work for you.

Chisels lose their edge every time they meet timber, knots or a hidden nail. Kitchen knives dull a little with every chop on the board. A few minutes on a stone brings both back to life for a fraction of the cost of replacing them.

What you'll need

You do not need a workshop full of gear to get started. A single combination stone with a coarse and a fine side covers most jobs at home.

• A sharpening stone (a two-sided combination stone is ideal for beginners). Browse the hand tool range to pair one with your other kit.
• A container of water or honing oil, depending on your stone type.
• A clean rag or paper towel to wipe the blade and stone.
• A non-slip mat or damp cloth to stop the stone sliding.
• Good light. A bright work lamp or an adjustable-beam torch helps you read the bevel and spot the burr.
• For a razor test, a scrap of paper. For knives used in the kitchen and dining space, a chopping board to test the finished edge.

If you plan to sharpen often, keep a small kitchen scale like the Emajin 40kg digital scale handy for portioning food after you have re-edged your knives, and a reliable long-neck lighter set nearby if you finish the day at the barbecue.

Which stone grit should you use?

Grit numbers describe how coarse or fine the stone is. Lower numbers cut fast and rough; higher numbers polish.

Coarse grit (roughly 200 to 400)

Use this to fix a chipped, rounded or badly neglected edge. It removes metal quickly, so go carefully and check your progress often.

Medium grit (roughly 800 to 1000)

This is your everyday sharpening grit for a blade that has simply gone dull. Most touch-ups start and finish here.

Fine grit (1200 and above)

Use fine grit to refine and polish the edge for slicing tomatoes or paring fine timber. It creates that smooth, keen finish you can feel.

How to sharpen a chisel step by step

Chisels are the easiest tool to learn on because the back is already flat and the bevel is easy to see. Take your time and let the stone do the cutting.

1. Prepare the stone. Soak a water stone until the bubbles stop, or wet an oil stone with a few drops of honing oil. Sit it on a non-slip surface.
2. Flatten the back first. Lay the flat back of the chisel completely flat on the stone and rub it back and forth a few times. A flat back is half of a sharp edge.
3. Find the bevel angle. Tip the chisel up onto its existing bevel, around 25 to 30 degrees. Rock it gently until the whole bevel sits flat on the stone.
4. Sharpen the bevel. Holding that angle, push the chisel forward and back along the stone in smooth, even strokes. Keep steady, light pressure and use the full length of the stone.
5. Feel for the burr. After a dozen or so strokes, run a fingertip carefully off the back of the edge. A tiny wire burr means you have sharpened right to the tip.
6. Move to a finer grit. Repeat the same strokes on the fine side to polish the bevel and refine the edge.
7. Remove the burr. Lay the back flat again and take one or two light passes to knock the burr off. Your edge is now sharp.

How to sharpen a kitchen knife step by step

A knife uses a shallower angle than a chisel and is sharpened on both sides. The motion is a slicing action rather than a straight push.

1. Set the angle. Hold the blade at about 15 to 20 degrees to the stone. A rough guide is two stacked coins under the spine of a thin blade.
2. Sweep the whole edge. Starting at the heel, push the blade forward and across the stone as if slicing a thin layer off the top, drawing the tip through as you go.
3. Count your strokes. Do the same number of strokes on each side so the edge stays even and centred.
4. Feel for the burr, then swap sides. Once you feel a burr along the whole edge, turn the knife over and repeat.
5. Finish on fine grit. A few light alternating strokes each side polishes the edge and removes the last of the burr.
6. Wash and dry. Rinse off any metal slurry and dry the blade before it goes near food or back in the block.

How do you test if the edge is sharp?

The paper test is the quickest check. Hold a sheet of paper upright and slice down through it; a sharp edge cuts cleanly without tearing or folding.

For knives, a ripe tomato is the honest test. If it bites the skin on the first pass without squashing, you are done. For chisels, pare a thin curl off the end grain of a scrap of pine; it should slice, not crush.

Common mistakes to avoid

Most sharpening problems come down to inconsistency. Fix these and your edges improve straight away.

• Changing the angle mid-stroke. Rocking your wrist rounds the bevel. Lock your posture and move from the shoulders.
• Pressing too hard. Heavy pressure gouges the stone and overheats the steel. Let the grit do the work.
• Skipping the burr check. If you have not raised a burr, you have not reached the very edge yet.
• Using a dry stone that needs water. A clogged, dry stone glazes over and stops cutting.
• Forgetting the back of the chisel. A curved back can never make a straight, sharp edge.

When to call in a pro

Most edges are easy to maintain at home once you have the knack. Send a blade out only when the damage is beyond a stone.

A deeply chipped chisel, a knife with a bent tip, or expensive serrated and Japanese blades are worth handing to a professional sharpening service. The same goes for power tool blades and mower parts, which need specialist grinding gear to do safely.

Frequently asked questions

What angle should I sharpen a chisel at?

Most bench chisels are sharpened at roughly 25 to 30 degrees. A slightly steeper angle around 30 degrees holds up better in hard timber, while a shallower 25-degree edge slices softwood more finely. The key is picking one angle and holding it consistently through every stroke on the stone.

Do I need to soak my sharpening stone in water?

It depends on the stone. Water stones should be soaked until the air bubbles stop, usually five to ten minutes, so they stay lubricated and cut freely. Oil stones use a few drops of honing oil instead and must never be soaked. Diamond stones need only a light splash of water. Always check the maker's guidance.

How often should I sharpen my kitchen knives?

For home cooking, a full sharpen every few months is usually plenty, depending on how much you cook and what you cut. Between sharpenings, a few passes on a honing steel realigns the edge and keeps it slicing well. If a knife starts crushing tomatoes or slipping on the board, it is asking for the stone.

Can I sharpen a chisel with sandpaper instead of a stone?

Yes. Wet-and-dry sandpaper stuck to a flat surface like glass or tile, often called scary-sharp, works well and is a cheap way to start. Work through the grits the same way you would on a stone, from coarse to fine. A dedicated stone lasts far longer and stays flatter, so it is the better long-term choice.